Inside the Muddy Wrestling Rings of Varanasi

IT IS JUST AFTER 7 in the morning, but Tulsi Akhada, deep in the heart of Varanasi in north India, has been open for over an hour already. The 20 or so young men there are training under the experienced master Pehlwan Siyaramji, who is closely watching the proceedings. Siyaramji is in his sixties but looks fitter than any of his pupils, having followed a strict exercise routine since he was a boy.
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